How to make a tile screen for a bathtub

Stage two: drywall and tiles

Then a drywall sheet is mounted on the surface of the frame, in which the window for the revision window is preliminarily cut. The sheet is fastened with screws with a pitch of 100-150 mm (to the guide and post profile). The surface is covered with a layer of acrylic primer with antifungal additives. Tiles are glued to the front of the sheet; a building level is used to check the vertical position of the elements. The tile under the bathroom is cured until the installation mixture dries.

Stage one: markup and installation of guides for the screen

The sequence of actions in the manufacture of the frame:

  • Apply on the floor covering the contour corresponding to the outer perimeter of the bath. For marking, a building level is used, which is applied to the end edge of the bath. Then a parallel line is drawn, located at a distance of 20-25 mm from the edge. Clearance is required to accommodate a layer of drywall and tile.
  • Attach a U-shaped profile or timber block to the floor. For fixing, glue or silicone-based sealant is used; to increase the strength of the structure, it is recommended to fasten the elements with screws screwed into plastic dowels. If tiles are laid on the walls, then carbide drills are used that do not damage the tiles.
  • Install the upper guide, connect the parts with screws. Then, fragments of the rack-mount profile are installed, which increase the rigidity of the structure. If a niche or inspection hatch is provided in the screen, then the area of ​​the window location is formed by sections of the rack profile. A cross sibling connector may be required to connect elements.

How to make a screen

The owner of the room can make a bathroom screen from tiles with his own hands in a few days. For the manufacture of the structure, you will need a metal profile or timber and drywall 12 mm thick.

The amount of materials depends on the length and geometric shape of the structure. Fixation of components is carried out with special screws with a protective coating.

Preparatory markup

Since the installation of profiles to the floor and walls will be carried out using sanitary silicone sealant. Clearly, you need to start with the markup. To begin with, we take a level and set it along the side in the bathroom at a clearly vertical level, and then put a mark on the floor. Further from the mark we retreat a little more than one centimeter.

Namely, given this part of the edge of the side of the bath.

Next, add the thickness of the gypsum fiber sheet and the thickness of the tile to this dimension, taking into account the thickness of the tile adhesive of three millimeters. Further, all the same must be done from the opposite side. But already having put only the first mark on the level. And then simply transferring to it the already calculated total dimensions from the first mark.

Then, having removed the size from wall to wall, we cut off two guide profiles of this length. And after degreasing the surface with a solvent, applying a silicone sealant, glue one of the profiles to the floor. Guided by the mark located on the floor.

I usually use a transparent color for these purposes. But especially for the photo, so that it was better seen, I used white.

Then we measure the side ones. We cut off the desired length of the profile and after inserting it into the previous one, glue them along a clearly vertical level. If the silicone sealant has crawled out along the edges from the front side, then you do not need to touch it. When it dries, you can then remove the whole thing with a sharp cutter blade. While the profiles are grabbing

Bathtub cladding with complex shapes

If the tank bowl has a non-standard curved shape, a metal profile is suitable for making the frame; use a drywall sheet or extruded polystyrene foam as a cladding material:

  • measure the bath and cut the required amount of the profile;
  • make small cuts along the entire length of the guide rail in 30 mm increments;
  • attach the profile to the side and fix it with tape. Run the frame along the entire length of the bowl, making gentle bends at the cut. To keep the resulting shape, secure the rail with tape in several places during work;
  • clean the floor from dust and debris, transfer the points of the border of the boards to the base using a plumb line, draw a preliminary line;
  • indent deep into the bathtub by the thickness of the facing tiles, glue mortar and plaster, outline the outer border of the screen;
  • attach the profile to the floor with dowel-nails;
  • in accordance with the height of the bath, cut off two metal slats and fix them on the walls;
  • cut a sheet of drywall or expanded polystyrene on a panel 15-20 cm wide, depending on the curvature of the bowl;
  • insert the lower edge of each part of the screen into the profile, place the upper edge under the side of the bath and fill the space with construction foam;
  • install the remaining panels in the same way, leave room for the revision window if necessary;
  • insulate seams and joints with silicone sealant;
  • apply a waterproof putty to the entire surface of the screen, after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper and proceed to tiling.
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If the contour of the bath is too curved, the screen is lined with mosaic tiles (glass, ceramic, made of polymer materials), which are presented by manufacturers both as separate chips and in the form of modules on a paper or mesh basis.

What are the types of screens

  • Sliding design that moves along guides on rollers. For the manufacture of doors, plastic or MDF panels are used. A similar scheme allows you to use the space under the bathroom for storing household chemicals or various household utensils (in an open way or in a special drawer or container). Due to the design features of the protective panel, tiling is not possible.
  • Removable screen under the bathtub made of plastic panels, allowing access to plumbing fittings. The construction is not adapted to the installation of additional tiles due to the low strength of the base. When you try to stick the tile, the plastic bursts, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the adhesive layer.
  • Stationary structure made of plywood or plasterboard. The surface of the panel is covered with ceramic tiles identical to the material used for the walls or floors. The resulting tile screen is characterized by increased strength, but it is necessary to provide for inspection hatches in the design. The windows are located opposite the water supply lines, the installation site of the hatch is planned at the stage of manufacturing the supporting frame from a metal or wooden profile.
  • Rigid construction with leg recess. The scheme makes it easier to hand wash or bathe animals or children. The niche is made deaf or open, the second option allows you to serve water mains. A blind recess requires the manufacture of an additional frame, which is then sewn up with drywall and laid out with tiles.
  • The wall is made of bricks (placed on the side edge), which is then covered with decorative materials. The design provides for inspection windows located near the installation sites of sewage drains.

The nuances of gluing tiles

  • lamellas can be installed on a screen made of bricks, tongue-and-groove elements, drywall or moisture-resistant plywood;
  • install decorative cladding with a moisture-resistant solution or liquid nails;
  • in the case of using tile glue, spread the mixture on the back of the lamella with a notched trowel, apply liquid nails pointwise around the entire perimeter and in the center of the tile;
  • start the installation of the first element from the upper corner of the screen and be sure to control the position of the tiles using the building level;
  • when laying tiles, insert dividing crosses into the inter-tile spaces;
  • be sure to grout the joints with a moisture-resistant mixture. this will prevent moisture penetration under the tiles, the development of mold and violation of the integrity of the facing coating.

Removable structures

If necessary, it is always possible to install a removable screen under the bathroom. Its base is assembled from oriented strand boards. Due to the peculiarities of production and its internal structure, the described material resists moisture well and is not afraid of it. The front side of such a screen must be tiled. Adjustable legs are mounted below. It is they who allow the described product, after installation, to press tightly against the upper side of the bathroom bowl and reliably fix the entire decorative structure.

Tile bathroom screen. design options and instructions for the implementation of the project with your own hands

Modern design dictates certain rules for the implementation of design concepts. The aesthetic component of the question is put in the first place. It should not be carried out at the expense of damage to the technical component of the interior. Therefore, solutions are welcome that allow you to successfully mask the presence of the same engineering communications. An example of such an embodiment is a tile bath screen. It helps to close the unsightly lower part of the bathhouse itself from prying eyes, as well as hide the pipes under it. If the bathing bowl is made of acrylic or plastic, they usually come with ready-made panels that are easy to install with your own hands. But in order for the steel or cast-iron bowls to look neat, you will have to independently build partitions from the tiles. A story about how to do this is the subject of this article.

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make, tile, screen, bathtub

General tips for achieving the task

Typically, bathing makers produce high performance products. The inner surface of the bathroom is covered with resistant enamel. It has a boiling white color. Bath bowls necessarily have legs. They ensure the stability of the position of the described product. A niche is formed under the legs, which must be closed. The story of how to make a tile screen for your bathtub should begin with a description of the different forms of tile screens. She may be:

  • Deaf.
  • Sliding.
  • With a niche for legs.
  • With inspection hatch.

Fixed screens made of tiles for a bath are a product without any additional elements. Making such a screen for a bathtub out of tiles with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears: first, a frame is assembled from a monolithic material (drywall, for example), then its surface is covered with tiles. Most often, for these purposes, the same tile is used that was used for wall or floor cladding. This option has its advantages and disadvantages: the monolithic structure looks quite impressive, but it completely blocks access to communications. In the event of a breakdown, repair becomes impossible.

The principle of operation of a sliding structure is similar to the principle of operation of wardrobe doors. One of the doors slides along the guide, opening access to the existing engineering units. It is not very appropriate to install ceramics on a sliding frame. Facing with tiles creates an additional load on the frame, therefore, it significantly reduces the service life of the described structure. This is why the sliding screen under the tile bathtub is rarely used.

There is a compromise solution that allows you to make a ceramic screen for the bathroom, while providing access to important communications. These are screens with a niche for legs. Its design is distinguished by the fact that a technical hole is formed in the center right at the floor. It allows you to come close to the bathing bowl, throw over the side and at the same time avoid unnecessary stress on the back. Such a device greatly facilitates the processes of washing clothes, bathing children and animals. The foot niche can be located not only in the center, but also along the entire length of the bowl, somewhere on the side of it. This option, experts say, can become a good compromise in the desire to completely close the place under the bathroom, while providing at least some access to pipes and drain elements.

A screen with an inspection hatch is a modified type of blind structures and screens for bathtubs with a niche for feet. Its main difference is the presence of a technological hole (door or window) integrated into the body of the blind partition. The inspection hatch can be opened with a simple movement of the hand, while outwardly its presence can be well disguised as a cladding. It can be used for a complete repair of all technical units located behind a hidden door. The access hatch can, if desired, be left open to ventilate the space under the bathroom. And this is also very convenient.

DIY screens

The easiest way is to assemble screens for a bath from tiles with your own hands using drywall. Their design is extremely simple: first, the frame is assembled from a wooden bar, the frame is closed with a sheet of drywall, then a tile is attached to its surface using tile glue.

Note! Since the described product will be used in a room in which a high humidity threshold is constantly present, to create a screen, it is necessary to use either moisture-resistant drywall or tongue-and-groove sheets.

In more detail, the assembly diagram looks like this:

  • First, with the help of a building level and a plumb line, a marking is formed in two corners of the bath: a geometric figure is drawn right on the wall and on the floor, along the lines of which a wooden frame will be installed in the future.
  • The frame is assembled either from a wooden bar or from a metal profile. All vertical and horizontal elements are fastened together with metal corners.
  • Even at this stage, if the installation of an inspection hatch is envisaged, the frame structure is additionally reinforced by installing additional metal or wooden profiles.
  • A hatch is mounted, after which the frame is sheathed with sheet material.
  • Ceramic cladding. Only after the frame has been installed and sheathed can it be lined. The tiles are glued to the screen with ordinary supply glue. If the described product is installed after the completion of the renovation in the bathroom, it is better to use liquid nails instead of tile glue. The following recommendations help to install the tiles correctly.
  • The first tile is mounted in the upper left corner of the screen. Its position is verified according to the building level.
  • Then the adjacent module is installed in the line. The distance between the two tiles is adjusted with special plastic crosses.
  • If an inspection window is used, its door is also tiled. In this case, it is best to start laying tiles with its decoration.
  • After finishing the cladding, grouting is performed. But first, the upper gap between the bowl and the first row of cladding is filled with polyurethane foam.
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As you can see, the algorithm of actions is extremely simple. Today, almost every man in the street is able to assemble the screen with his own hands. The main thing is to comply with the proposed sequence of actions.

If not drywall, then what?

The bathroom screen can be assembled in other ways. A beautiful and fairly durable product is assembled using decorative bricks. Such a structure should be assembled even at the initial stages of repair, when there is already a ready-made concrete screed on the floor, but the floor covering has not yet been laid. The brick screen is assembled by means of masonry. To assemble the product, a solution is used (part of cement for six parts of sand). To perform such work, you need the skills of a bricklayer.

Note! The brick screen cannot be used as part of the supporting base for the bath bowl. It is only part of the decorative finish. The masonry should be built of bricks placed on the edge. Thus, it is possible to minimize the load on the floor slab.

When laying bricks, it is necessary to immediately provide for the presence of technical openings (holes for ventilation, for installing an inspection hatch or a niche for legs). Their installation takes place by removing part of the bricks from the masonry.

There are two ways to decorate a brick screen later. The masonry can be covered in several layers with moisture-resistant varnish and leave its natural texture. The masonry can be plastered, and then put any tile material on its surface. Laying tiles is allowed only after a week from the end of the assembly of the brick structure. This period will allow the solution to dry well. If the temporary pause cannot be sustained, the tile will fall in a couple of days, since in the first days the brickwork shifts and shrinks.

A brick, even placed on an edge, still forms a fairly high load on the floors when assembling the structure. Therefore, if there is an alternative to minimize it, you must definitely use it. As an alternative, experts recommend paying attention to silicate tongue-and-groove plates. They are allowed to be used for bathroom cladding. The described material is universal for the assembly of light floors; if necessary, silicate boards can be easily cut with an ordinary hacksaw. The presence of the tongue-and-groove system makes it easy to assemble monolithic blocks. The plates are fastened together with special adhesives or gypsum plaster. The silicate board screen requires subsequent decorative cladding. Any tile material that can withstand moisture is suitable for its implementation.


The bath screen allows you to cover the presence of communications, the unpresentable look of the legs of the bowls, as well as the outer side of the bath. Its presence gives the described plumbing product a more presentable appearance. If you embed inspection hatches into the screen or leave a niche under your feet, a space is formed behind it in which you can store household chemicals, brooms, mops and other similar tinsel.