Monitor turns off for 1 2 seconds
The video card driver is not working correctly
If the device is NOT functioning normally, some conflicts were found or the previous method did not help you, then we will act more aggressively:
- Boot the PC again in safe mode and go to the “Device Manager”.
- Open the item “Video adapters” and find your video card.
- Right click on it and select “Delete” (don’t worry, this is the usual procedure for uninstalling the driver).
- Confirm the deletion and restart the PC. it should start in normal mode.
- Install the driver on the video card from the included disk or download from the official website.
- Restart your computer again to make sure the monitor no longer goes blank.
- How to install drivers for an Nvidia video card?
- How to install drivers on AMD Radeon graphics card?
- How to find out the model of the video card on the computer?
Video card driver conflict
- Start. Control Panel. Device Manager (for convenience, you can select the “Large icons” view mode in the upper right corner).
How to open “Device Manager”
- In the new window, click on the item “Video adapters”, after which the name of your video card will be displayed.
- Right-click on it, select the “Properties” item and look at the state. If the video card is functioning normally, then the new window will say so.
- Next, select the “Resources” tab and read if there are conflicting devices.
- If everything is in order, then hide all windows. Then we press RMB on the desktop, select the item “Screen resolution” and select the minimum. for example, 800×600 pixels. Click “Apply” and restart your PC. If it turns on. congratulations, the problem is fixed.
The monitor turns off when Windows starts or during a game: what to do?
When you start Windows, your monitor goes blank? Or the laptop screen goes blank? Does it turn on first and turn off after 1, 2 or 3 seconds? At the same time, the computer itself (sistemnik) works, right?
There can be many reasons why the monitor turns off. And it doesn’t depend on what operating system you have: Windows XP, 7, 8 or 10. And it doesn’t even depend on what kind of monitor you have: Samsung, LG, Asus, Acer or Philips. Anyone can have this problem.
Since you do not know why the screen goes blank, first you need to make sure that this is not a hardware error. Below are 10 ways to solve this problem, and you can check them all one by one.
To fix the problem, you will need to turn on the computer. You can do this by downloading it in Safe Mode. To do this, when turning on the screen, repeatedly press the F8 button until a menu appears (in it, select the “Safe Mode” item). If the Windows logo appears, it means that you did not have time. Restart your computer and try again.
Recommended reading: How to start Safe Mode in Windows 10, 8, 7 and XP?
- Turn off the display
- Instructions for Windows 7 users:
Have you been cleaning a system unit or laptop for a long time??
The problem is as old as the world, but still. How long have you been cleaning your computer? If it is a very long time ago, then this may be the problem. And now you are trying to understand why the monitor lights up and goes out right after Windows boots
Dust can interfere with the operation of the video card or RAM, so it is recommended to clean the system unit as soon as possible. Or take it to a service center. let it be cleaned there. And henceforth, do not start your computer to such a state.
Instructions for Windows 7 users:
- Start. Control Panel. Power Supply.
- Select “Power plan setup”.
- In the item “Turn off the display” select the field “Never”.
On Windows 8 and 10, the procedure is about the same.
Instructions for Windows XP users:
- Right-click on the desktop and select “Properties”.
- Go to the “Screensaver” tab and press the “Power” button (bottom right).
- You see the familiar field “Disable the display” and select the item “Never” (or any other value).
Good to know. Missing sound on PC: what to do?
Malfunction of random access memory (RAM)
For this reason, the monitor goes out rather less often, but it does happen sometimes. You may have recently bought new RAM. Or was she just due.
If you have several RAM sticks, you can disable one. Or swap them. You can also check your RAM from a friend or take his RAM and connect it. If the problem is in her, you will immediately understand it.
Humidity is to blame
Another popular reason is humidity. Believe it or not, if a PC or laptop is left in a room with humid air for a long time, it will cause it to malfunction. As a result, the monitor turns on and off immediately. And all because condensation can accumulate in it, which, of course, will not give anything good.
Turn off the display
Let’s start with the simplest. Your monitor turns on, works great, but goes out after 10, 15 or 30 minutes. What is the problem?
By default, Windows is set to turn off the display after N minutes. It’s all about her.
“Yes, this cannot be!”. you will say. Maybe. But it’s worth checking out. It would be silly if, because of such a trifle, you spend a lot of time and nerves trying to figure out why the monitor goes out. In addition, the check will take 2 minutes at most.
Monitor turns off for 1 2 seconds
I’m sure you’ve heard such a thing as “swollen” capacitors, this is the most common cause of failure of motherboards and power supplies of computers, but the boards of power supplies for LCD monitors are no exception, which convert the incoming 220 volts into 5 volts to power the electrical circuit and 14 and more volts for the operation of the matrix and the backlight inverter.
If your monitor is not new and you admit the possibility of failure of the capacitors in the power supply, you need to inspect their appearance, for this you need to disassemble the monitor, as a rule, there is a metal box inside, and under it there are two boards, one power supply (where the cord is inserted 220 volts), and the second board is actually the low-voltage part, which is responsible for the operation and control of the monitor.
If you have a multimeter at hand, turn on the disassembled monitor and measure the voltage at the output of the power supply, usually the voltages that should be on a working monitor are written next to the terminals. In my case, I observed a voltage of 4.3 volts instead of the prescribed 5 volts, which already hinted at problems in the power supply.
The most important thing when buying new capacitors is the Honor’s capacitance, voltage and dimensions. I decided to change all six capacitors and bought ten 1000 uF capacitors with a margin, for a voltage of 25 volts, the dimensions were identical to the old ones at 680 uF. You ask why I put higher capacitors?
The fact is that in the output stages of the power supply, electrolytic capacitors play the role of smoothing the impulse voltage and by increasing the nominal capacity by 50-100%, you get a smoother voltage and a margin of capacity.
Next, I evaporated all the old capacitors and soldered the new ones. I want to draw your attention to the fact that electrolytic capacitors have polarity, i.e. it is not all the same how you solder them. Usually on the printed circuit board there are markings for the minus contact, and on the capacitor itself there is a designation for the minus terminal, so be careful, your task is to solder the new capacitors strictly observing the polarity.
After we soldered new capacitors and made sure that there are no closed paths after working with a soldering iron, we turn on the monitor to the network. The LED lit up and no longer blinked. those. I already realized that the monitor worked, but to make sure I measured the output voltage, as you can see, it was already the required 5 volts. After that I connected the wires, made sure that the monitor works and no longer turns off on its own and put everything in the reverse order.
And finally, I want to give data on measurements of the capacitance of the evaporated capacitors. Let me remind you that a total of six electrolytes were replaced, four of which had obvious signs of “bloating”, their top side was not flat and round. So, so that you understand what a swollen capacitor is, I will give the following measurement results: the capacity of the faulty capacitors ranged from 16 to 90 μF, instead of the nominal 680 μF.
Thus, we can say with confidence that in my case, the external sign of a slight swelling of capacitors was a consequence of a loss of capacity by more than 90%, which led to an unstable undervoltage, which prevented the start of the monitor backlight inverter, which is why the monitor turned on and immediately turned off due to the fault voltage dips. If you still have questions, you can ask them in the comments below to this article.